Oddities

At this point, the car is about done, and I thought it was about time to summarize the characteristics of this car that are contrary to conventional beliefs. There are quite a few.

Radiator

The radiator is what most knowledgeable Mustang collectors would consider an S2 “San Jose” radiator. True that the radiator is marked W Mo, for Modine radiator western division.  But I found an S2 radiator on an unrestored one owner June 9 K code coupe from Dearborn.  I spoke to the owner at length about the car and he stated that it was the original radiator.  Modine had a long standing relationship as a radiator supplier to Ford.  All radiators documented were dated May, or June 64.  These radiators are unique in that they have an upper baffle and higher density of cooling fins than standard cooling radiators.  Since Ford had an earlier opening planned for the San Jose/Milpitas plant, and K code production that was to start there - in order to deliver K codes by June 1st as planned.  The May/June production dates for the the hipo “S” radiators falls right in line with that.  But SJ didn’t start until mid July.  So When K code production started in late June in Dearborn, many of the S2 radiators we’re sent there instead.

Automatic Choke Carburetor 

This perplexing substitution for the planned manual choke C4OF-AL was caused by a need to get K codes in front of customers by July 4th weekend. The production delays had K code production start behind by about three weeks according to the Ford Archives in Dearborn.  What at first seemed strange is that the manual choke exhaust manifolds(without choke stove to heat the carburetor choke mechanism when the engine was warm) were still used with the automatic choke carb.  The evidence shows that there was a shortage of the manual choke carburetors but ample supplies of automatic choke C3OF-AJ carburetors.  With the heater hose clamped to the side of the C3OF AJ choke housing, the choke would work at least well enough to get through the July 4th sales push, where these auto choke K codes would serve to entice prospective buyers to order a new K code Mustang.  These cars were dressed to impress, some with Cobra dress-up kits for some added bling on an already enticing high performance package.  Though generally allocated to higher volume dealerships in the DSO, they were shared among dealers in the DSO, suing the sales push. After the sales push these cars were to be retrofitted with the manual choke C4OF-AL carburetor, when they became available, before being sold.  With this car, the car was allocated to Courtesy Motors in Charlotte, NC, but the sale was facilitated by Mooresville Motors in Mooresville, NC.  As a result, the communication that a retrofit manual choke carburetor was to be installed went to Courtesy instead of Mooresville, the communication between dealerships didn’t happen, and as a result the retrofit was never done.  Bill, the original owner, told me that the automatic choke worked great and that he never had any problems with up until he traded the K code in for a 1969 Shelby GT 350.

Gray Grill

Evidently during June 1964 Mustang was getting a gray rather than gunmetal blue grill that was more common in later production.  The color was matched from the original grill.

Air Cleaner

The air cleaner assembly is also unique to very early K codes.  It is essentially the same as the ‘64 Fairlane except that the base was painted a darker bronze gold than the later metallic gold.  It has a single choke air pick off blocked by a rubber plug and chrome double hump top without any provision for a close ventilation tube from the oil breather.  It’s been observed that many of these air cleaner trays had black paint under the bronze gold - implying that these were leftover and repainted for the early hipo Mustangs.

Rear Brake Line Bracket and Exhaust Hanger Attachments 

This is the only K code, even among very early ones, that the bracket which supports the rear axle brake hose connection to the solid line to the body, is attached with two bolts rather spot welded.  It also uses 4 Ford RBC bolts rather than the C1VV plate used on all other K codes, to attach the dual exhaust hangers to the rear of the floor pans.    This supports other evidence that the car may have been a pilot build other than on the main assembly line.  Early cars had numerous markings on the radiator support that differed from later K codes indicting that the cars had special procedures that were different from non-K codes. All original paint and markings were preserved on the radiator support of this car.

Oil Filter

I mention the NOS Rotunda oil filter because we would normally expect a factory black oil filter.  Because the car had toured numerous dealerships and test drives by prospective buyers, the car was given a fresh oil change and prep before delivery to Bill the original owner.

Exhaust System

 The NOS Ford script exhaust system is finally installed.  It was a major effort acquiring the various parts (taking 7 years some parts coming from as far away as Germany) and a major effort to restore them.  Ford never spent much effort to protect exhaust system pipes and muffler from damage - so they all have dents and imperfections - as did the exhaust systems when then they went on the cars at the factory.  One of the ways that you can immediately spot a reproduction exhaust system is by it's lack of imperfections.  Additionally, because the NOS parts were stored without packaging for the most part, they developed surface rust - especially those parts that weren't stainless steel or aluminized.  (There is a whole progression of revisions to the components of the 64 1/2 exhaust that I uncovered during research of these cars - whether aluminized, stainless, bare steel, etc. - too much to try and present here, but if I ever get the new book finished you can find that and more detailed history about these early K codes there.)

Here's a shot of the whole exhaust system before installation including the original restored exhaust hangers and hardware that were still on the car when I got it.  Also pictured are the NOS Fomoco clamps near their approximate locations on the exhaust system when installed.

I have documented and studied over a dozen early June planned build date K codes. This particular one is unique in numerous ways from the others, including the way in which the original rear floor pan exhaust hangers were attached.  Instead of using the the C1VV-5B236-C plate, on this car, two Ford bolts with toothed nuts attached them to the body. I have the complete ownership history for this car and have spoken at length to 4 of the prior owners and the General Manager/Owner of the Ford dealership that allocated this car to the original owner.  This in addition to a detailed examination of the mounting holes, these hangers had all been on the car since the day the car left the factory.  In fact, they had been reused by the last owner to hang the aftermarket exhaust that was on the car when I bought it - which is really cool.  From inside, showing the rear seat pan reinforcement plate.

From outside.  All hardware was replated as originally done.  Note the original date correct rear shocks.

 

There are several other oddities, including that the rear brake line to body bracket was attached by two screws and two nuts, rather than spot welding like all of the other cars I've studied have had (pic in one of my previous posts).

Shot of left rear dual exhaust tailpipe (which is clamped to the left hand outlet of the transverse muffler with a NOS Ford clamp).  The pipe and the rear of the exhaust system is supported by the original 64 1/2 style exhaust hangers that were on the car when I acquired it.  The original hanger to body hardware was re-plated as original and re-used.  Note the red leaf spring markings were recreated from the original markings found on the rear springs after soaking in rust remover though they disolved when the spring was rinsed.  They refer to the actual measured leaf spring load rate and deflection.  These markings are also documented on at least one factory promotional/test car used in a magazine road test published in the summer of 1964.

 

The early production K code used the zinc plated screws unlike later production which used phosphate plated screws.  These screws are not reproduced.  There are at least 3 types of markings that appear in the recessed area of these screw heads.

 

 

Convertible Top Disassembly and Resto

 

I've been putting off the convertible top, but now we're getting down to the end game here and the top has to be done.  It is also, arguably, one of the toughest items to faithfully restore and install properly. I've started refurbishing the original parts in preparation for install, which is probably a month off yet.  This preparatory work includes restoring the front header (#1) convertible top bow.  This is the early style with the round top handle pivot which is held in place by a roll pin.  

 

The original chrome parts will be removed and re-plated prior to assembly.

The latch handles will be stripped and repainted along with all other painted parts on the #1 bow assembly.  Paint has already been matched with original.  Note original Ford engineering numbers on the handle and the latch hook pivot base.  The handle is a bit loose on the handle pivot, but still very functional which would be okay to leave as is for most restorations, but not for this car.  When the handle pivots are reassembled with the original hardware, the tightness of the pivot will be restored like it was originally.  This is critical to the #1 bow to header weatherstrip being air tight, especially at highway speeds.

 

The design of bow #1 and the way that the top material wraps around it makes it is susceptible to water intrusion and staying wet for a while after exposure to water.  This is especially true if the top has been replaced - many restorers do not follow the original top installation procedures and they make the problem even worse. Fortunately this bow has its original top pads still attached from the factory with the factory gaffers tape wrapped around it.  

 

 It survived really well with just a little bit of water infiltration at some point in time (indicated by a couple of rusty screw heads that attach the LH top pad to the #1 bow). 

 

The top pads are still attached to all of the bows as they were from the Ford Utica assembly plant with the unique small width staples. 

 

With a little luck, the top will go back on just as it did from the factory since the bows are set in place by the factory attached pads.  Note that the #2, 3, and 4 bows are satin black while the rest of the assembly is semigloss.  The padding between #3 and #4 is original from the factory and will be reused, seen on other convertibles of this period.

 

Factory handwriting on the RH top pad.  The number 326 above the date 6-12-64 is thought to be an identifier for the Utica assembly plant worker where the top frames were assembled, not a rotation number as you might first guess. This car's rotation number is 358 (a sequential number used to track the car and many of its parts during assembly).  LH pad also has handwriting int he same area but is not fully legible - though it also appears to have a 3  digit number starting with 3 and a date below it.

Once the #1 bow is cleaned and repainted a new tack strip will be riveted in place as it was originally and the whole assembly will look like it did the day the car left the factory. 

 

The original top pads for this period of production are unique in their texture and are extremely difficult to find in good usable condition.  They also have a plastic reinforcement strip where they attache to the front bow.  These are in really good shape and need only a little TLC to make them like new again.

Also appear to have the original rear window zipper. 

 

Note the loop and the 3 digit identifier (347) stamped on it.  This will clean up really nicely and then will be reinstalled.

 

Glass and Window Assembly

Installed the re-chromed/polished original vent window assemblies.  All of the windows in the car were disassembled, and chrome parts were re-chromed while stainless parts were polished.  These things look like new again, reassembled with their original Car Lite glass.

Vent window assembly and original division bar.  The original division bar chrome bead was also polished. 

Vent window parts below before assembly and riveting the weatherstrip to the stainless vertical bar.

Now below, after riveting, before window and frame insertion.

 

 

Interestingly, the original glass in this convertible is not tinted.  Note the absence of "Sun X" in the logo.  This vent window glass was manufactured January 1964, months before the start of Mustang production. The date of the windows on the car range from this date on up to May 1964.

 

Driver side vent window dated 4E, May 1964. (above)

 

Close up of the left hand windshield frame showing the original windshield stainless retainer clips.  All of the original retainers were cleaned up and reinstalled precisely following the procedure in the factory assembly manual shown below.  Many restorers gob these things and the whole windshield opening with bedding sealant. The manual is very clear on how much should be used, identified by item D in the drawing - pretty close to what I actually did. Getting too much of this goop up under the clip can create an unnecessary mess and interfere with the installation of the windshield trim and gasket.  Holding off on final adjustment of the window tracks and vent window frames until the windshield is installed along with all of the trim and weatherstrip around it.

I found and purchased a NOS windshield gasket for the original Car Lite windshield install.  This windshield has no tint and no banding at the top.  Difficult at this time to find a reproduction without tinting or banding.  Fortunately, I have an original so that is not a concern.  Pictures to come after the gasket arrives.

 The side widows were restored and turned out great.  The original stainless trim was removed and polished then reinstalled with new window setting tape.  Tracks and all parts were thoroughly cleaned before reassembly and installation. 

A hair dryer helps to soften the window setting tape on cold mornings in the shop which also helps to get it to stick to the window surface.

This corner can be problematic on re-installation of the trim, but some restrained cutting on the inside corners helps the fit.

The stainless trim was cleaned thoroughly inside before reassembly.  Failure to do so can cause the trim to not seat properly and cause fit/finish and operational issues later.

Just to be sure that the trim is seated properly I took some measurements before disassembly and here I am checking after.  Perfect!

Original black phosphate screws hold the stainless trim to the lower window channel helping to secure the window glass in place and completing all of the window assembly that can be done prior to installation in the door.

Appreciating the effort

 

 

https://www.hagerty.com/media/opinion/leno-appreciation-for-hard-work-is-fading-and-old-cars-arent-easy/

Saw this article today and it really hit home as I am closing in on completing this restoration nearly 10 years after I started it. Absolute truth, by Jay Leno, that I can personally attest to. Most people have absolutely no idea, nor appreciation for, the amount of time and effort it takes to restore a car to the way it was when the original owner saw it and fell in love with it - especially to very high levels of originality where nearly every component is date correct and factory original (not reproduction). Many of the "throw away" parts (oil/air filters, rubber parts, shocks, etc.), can only be found squirreled away in collections of new old stock parts (NOS) or that have been taken off of another car and survived on a shelf in someones basement or garage to finally show up on Craig's list, Ebay, or a swap meet - usually at a very high price tag. Particularly for the 64 1/2 High Performance K code convertible Mustang I am about to complete, many of the factory installed components were different from the replacement parts that were later manufactured by Ford - making it even MORE difficult to find the "date correct, factory correct" part. It has taken me nearly 10 years to do the research, find parts, replicate and/or preserve finishes - on every nut/bolt, with every one the right type, in the right place (and this car was very complete and rust free to begin with). Every part has been researched and analyzed by it's date, appearance, and compared to parts on other cars of the same time period, to the factory assembly manuals. Since most of the records for the cars prior to 1967 were destroyed by Ford, it can take years to figure out what was original, "factory correct" for the particular date and time of the car's production. I originally bought this car to drive and enjoy, but after getting the story from the original owner of how he acquired the car and fell in love with it, I was hooked on the idea of making it exactly as it originally was, when he first saw it. That includes every preserved perfectly imperfect factory paint drip and sloppily applied glob of seam sealer. Anyone can scour a car down to bare metal and make it perfect, but leaving the imperfections is a way of leaving the fingerprint of the people who hand built these cars 56 years ago. Faithfully doing all of these tedious things results in a truly exceptional example of what the car looked like when new. As Jay says in the attached article, few others will ever have the appreciation of the effort.

Dash

 

This post covers the dash and under-dash assemblies.  Tremendous amount of work to restore the individual components and then assemblies before mounting them in the dash.

Here is a close up of the heating and ventilation control.  All original including all cables chrome and attaching parts - these were meticulously cleaned, re-lubricated as necessary and reinstalled.  Note the different colors on the cable cover end crimped metal loop retainers, red green, and blue.  These match the colors on the opposite end of each cable.

The chrome heater control bezel looks great after cleaning. Chrome is original.

 
 Under the dash with a great view of the heating and ventilation control cables to the heater assembly.  Also note the other restored original speedometer cable, original steering column seal, and the original restored firewall insulation pad.  This reverse dimple design is unique to this period of production.  The cardboard plenum is such a cool detail.  These are very difficult to find in this condition, and many restorers give up and end up replacing these with a plastic reproduction.  Not here, all original under the dash like the day the car left the factory.

I featured the restored radio a few posts ago - now installed long with the heating and ventilation controls, the beautiful original chrome on these assemblies look awesome in contrast with the correct black satin dash.

 

These defroster tubes are unique to the early cars from the Dearborn assembly plant.  They have a round cross section with the cardboard outlets stapled on.  These are usually torn or crushed with the black fabric tape missing or ripped.  These were in great shape and just required a careful cleaning. Often overlooked detail on restored cars of this production period.

This is the original date stamped dash pad.  Note that the grain is not the sierra pattern on the vinyl seats.  I was able to clean this original dash pad and reinstall it.  Very cool and rare original detail.  The speaker grill was in such good shape, I just cleaned it and reinstalled it with it's original paint intact.

Lastly, before installing the restored original glove box door I re-plated the original hardware and painted the glove box hinge.  The reproduction hardware isn't the same as what was used during this production period.  Turned out great!

Heater Plenum

 

Original restored heater assembly with original dated core was re-cored with a NOS heater core and reassembled with restored original date stamped core housing and cardboard plenum. Ready for installation.

Date stamp on the core housing is Y4FB.  Y is the code for the assembly plant, 4FB is 2nd week of June 1964. All clips rivets, retainers and brackets are correct finished/plated original.

Date on the cardboard plenum is tough to make out (because when originally stamped the stamping device was at an angle over-impressing the top of the stamp) but on close examination it appears to be Y4FC.  Same plant as the housing,Ypsilanti.  

Recreated the original black masking tape with dog eared corners on the heater motor joint as original.