Convertible Top Disassembly and Resto

 

I've been putting off the convertible top, but now we're getting down to the end game here and the top has to be done.  It is also, arguably, one of the toughest items to faithfully restore and install properly. I've started refurbishing the original parts in preparation for install, which is probably a month off yet.  This preparatory work includes restoring the front header (#1) convertible top bow.  This is the early style with the round top handle pivot which is held in place by a roll pin.  

 

The original chrome parts will be removed and re-plated prior to assembly.

The latch handles will be stripped and repainted along with all other painted parts on the #1 bow assembly.  Paint has already been matched with original.  Note original Ford engineering numbers on the handle and the latch hook pivot base.  The handle is a bit loose on the handle pivot, but still very functional which would be okay to leave as is for most restorations, but not for this car.  When the handle pivots are reassembled with the original hardware, the tightness of the pivot will be restored like it was originally.  This is critical to the #1 bow to header weatherstrip being air tight, especially at highway speeds.

 

The design of bow #1 and the way that the top material wraps around it makes it is susceptible to water intrusion and staying wet for a while after exposure to water.  This is especially true if the top has been replaced - many restorers do not follow the original top installation procedures and they make the problem even worse. Fortunately this bow has its original top pads still attached from the factory with the factory gaffers tape wrapped around it.  

 

 It survived really well with just a little bit of water infiltration at some point in time (indicated by a couple of rusty screw heads that attach the LH top pad to the #1 bow). 

 

The top pads are still attached to all of the bows as they were from the Ford Utica assembly plant with the unique small width staples. 

 

With a little luck, the top will go back on just as it did from the factory since the bows are set in place by the factory attached pads.  Note that the #2, 3, and 4 bows are satin black while the rest of the assembly is semigloss.  The padding between #3 and #4 is original from the factory and will be reused, seen on other convertibles of this period.

 

Factory handwriting on the RH top pad.  The number 326 above the date 6-12-64 is thought to be an identifier for the Utica assembly plant worker where the top frames were assembled, not a rotation number as you might first guess. This car's rotation number is 358 (a sequential number used to track the car and many of its parts during assembly).  LH pad also has handwriting int he same area but is not fully legible - though it also appears to have a 3  digit number starting with 3 and a date below it.

Once the #1 bow is cleaned and repainted a new tack strip will be riveted in place as it was originally and the whole assembly will look like it did the day the car left the factory. 

 

The original top pads for this period of production are unique in their texture and are extremely difficult to find in good usable condition.  They also have a plastic reinforcement strip where they attache to the front bow.  These are in really good shape and need only a little TLC to make them like new again.

Also appear to have the original rear window zipper. 

 

Note the loop and the 3 digit identifier (347) stamped on it.  This will clean up really nicely and then will be reinstalled.

 

Glass and Window Assembly

Installed the re-chromed/polished original vent window assemblies.  All of the windows in the car were disassembled, and chrome parts were re-chromed while stainless parts were polished.  These things look like new again, reassembled with their original Car Lite glass.

Vent window assembly and original division bar.  The original division bar chrome bead was also polished. 

Vent window parts below before assembly and riveting the weatherstrip to the stainless vertical bar.

Now below, after riveting, before window and frame insertion.

 

 

Interestingly, the original glass in this convertible is not tinted.  Note the absence of "Sun X" in the logo.  This vent window glass was manufactured January 1964, months before the start of Mustang production. The date of the windows on the car range from this date on up to May 1964.

 

Driver side vent window dated 4E, May 1964. (above)

 

Close up of the left hand windshield frame showing the original windshield stainless retainer clips.  All of the original retainers were cleaned up and reinstalled precisely following the procedure in the factory assembly manual shown below.  Many restorers gob these things and the whole windshield opening with bedding sealant. The manual is very clear on how much should be used, identified by item D in the drawing - pretty close to what I actually did. Getting too much of this goop up under the clip can create an unnecessary mess and interfere with the installation of the windshield trim and gasket.  Holding off on final adjustment of the window tracks and vent window frames until the windshield is installed along with all of the trim and weatherstrip around it.

I found and purchased a NOS windshield gasket for the original Car Lite windshield install.  This windshield has no tint and no banding at the top.  Difficult at this time to find a reproduction without tinting or banding.  Fortunately, I have an original so that is not a concern.  Pictures to come after the gasket arrives.

 The side widows were restored and turned out great.  The original stainless trim was removed and polished then reinstalled with new window setting tape.  Tracks and all parts were thoroughly cleaned before reassembly and installation. 

A hair dryer helps to soften the window setting tape on cold mornings in the shop which also helps to get it to stick to the window surface.

This corner can be problematic on re-installation of the trim, but some restrained cutting on the inside corners helps the fit.

The stainless trim was cleaned thoroughly inside before reassembly.  Failure to do so can cause the trim to not seat properly and cause fit/finish and operational issues later.

Just to be sure that the trim is seated properly I took some measurements before disassembly and here I am checking after.  Perfect!

Original black phosphate screws hold the stainless trim to the lower window channel helping to secure the window glass in place and completing all of the window assembly that can be done prior to installation in the door.